There are moments when we want now to last forever. At other times, soon can’t come fast enough. The SOONOW timepiece by HYT has the answer. Its intriguing and captivating presentation of time’s flow is a constant reminder that every second counts. Because these moments are what add together to equal lives – ours.Read More
Panerai has launched the Luminor Yachts Challenge. This is a watch that comes in three varieties, all in the brand’s signature 44mm large Luminor case and fitted with caliber P.9100. It is fitted with an automatic movement which combines a flyback chronograph with a three-day power reserve. The pushers to operate the chronograph are conveniently located on the left side of the case, while the right is dominated by the instantly recognizable crown protection device.
The three watches are full of details referring to Panerai’s rich heritage, and an interesting one is that the tachymeter scale on the watches is in knots. Panerai offers the Luminor Yachts Challenge in titanium with a black dial and light blue details, on their signature rubber strap. On the dial, we find the letters ‘PCYC’ in reference to the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge.
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Dissolving apparent contradictions drives HYT. The latest H4 watches shed even more light on this intrinsic fascination with making the paradoxical meaningful. These colorful new timepieces remain loyal to the brand's fil rouge of showcasing the power of the past and future to assign the present context and content. At the same time, they add a striking new dimension to the combined energy of two potentially polemic opposites – light and liquid – with the smallest dynamo ever invented, patent pending. There's an instant of tension when creativity succeeds in replacing an enigma with enlightenment. The new H4 watches were born of such a moment.Read More
The latest H20 from HYT looks to this visual art that operates in three dimensions to shed light on the essence of time. Viewed from any aspect, the sculpted timepiece unveils new angles on time, while colored and clear liquids keep its essential flow permanently present. Second by second, further layers of time are revealed, witnessed and anticipated. The all-black color-scheme, right through to the coating of the movement's bridges, intensifies the visual drama between mystery and transparency. This intrinsic interplay of time and space brings to life the core HYT belief that time is defined by content and context.Read More
With MB&F you sometimes wonder how they can move on to the next watch based on their past creations. As both their designs as well as their movements are cutting edge, it is hard to see the next logical step, at least when your name is not Maximilian Büsser and you founded the brand. The challenge is to not only offer a new watch with an incredible wow-factor but also to inject it with sufficient MB&F-DNA and have it as a natural extension of the current collection. With the introduction of the new MB&F HM9, we can say once again; mission accomplished!
The ‘pods’ on each side of the main body of the HM9 contain a balance wheel, which can be admired through a sapphire window. The rate of them is balanced out by a planetary differential, that is located in the central body of the watch, and displayed at the front of the watch. MB&F will launch the HM9 ‘Flow’ in two editions of 33 pieces each, that share the titanium case. The ‘Air’ edition features a dark finish on the movement and a dial in aviator-style. The ‘Road’ edition pays tribute to 1950’s cars with a speedometer inspired dial, and a rose gold plated movement.
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Still life is never about life standing still. Just like an element of one of those beautifully haunting paintings, the HYT Skull 48.8 has carpe diem on its mind. This distinctive timepiece continually reminds of the importance of seizing every second. Highlighting time’s passage using liquids, it focuses on the power of the present, the very elixir of life.
The charismatic protagonist of this mesmerizing staging of time’s flow is a skull-shaped capillary. A patented fluidic module and exclusive mechanical calibre bring this to life. Colored liquid symbolizes reflection, while its transparent counterpart speculates reservedly on the future. Their meniscus meeting point precisely depicts the vital now. The broad eyes on the dial of the Skull 48.8 intimidate intentionally, prompting onlookers to take a closer look at how they themselves are spending their time. Behind the right eye is a rotating disc expressing the passing of each precious second as it fades from dark to pale. Placing time’s essential momentum center stage, the counting of the minutes moves backstage, eliminating the need for a minute hand.
Light and color play accomplished supporting roles in the drama of the Skull 48.8. Three limited editions incorporate red, green and blue fluid respectively. As each shade flows around the skull to represent elapsed life, it extends its contrasting influence over the monochromatic backcloth of the galvanized dial and titanium case. This deliberate tension fascinates the eye, as does the effect of light on the differently treated, unmistakably modern grey surfaces. Confirming the force of color-coding are grey fabric straps within a structure that matches the influencing tone. The present requests our presence.
Two iconic names that join forces and together create a watch: it sounds like a match made in heaven, yet in the watch world there are plenty of examples where such a partnership resulted in watches that couldn’t even uphold their position among the regular collection of the brand. For Hublot, such partnerships have always been a way of life, and their approach towards it has always been organic. They know their own DNA, yet they also know what DNA of their partner makes it such a strong brand. That is why their partnership with Ferrari has over the years resulted in beautiful and innovative watches, with as current highlight the Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph.
What makes the Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph so special is first the occasion for which it is created: the 70th anniversary of the brand with the prancing horse. Secondly also the way that it was conceived is unique: Ferrari’s own Design Center, headed by its Head of Design Flavio Manzoni, developed the watch in the same way as that they do one of their sports cars, yet now also integrate Hublot’s watchmaking expertise.
The dial highlights all the technical treats that the watch has to offer. Of course, this includes a flying tourbillon, but also essentials parts of the chronograph are exposed. The chronograph itself is a mono-pusher and operated by a lever in Ferrari red anodized aluminum. This allows its owner to operate it with great ease and precision.
The back offers even more of an insight into the amazing movement that powers the Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph. Caliber HUB6311 is a manual wind movement that consists out of 253 components and has a generous power reserve of five days. Combined with its flying tourbillon and column wheel chronograph is this caliber complicated, yet Hublot also delivers an aesthetically very pleasing movement as is evident from the back.
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Roger Dubuis releases it's third version of a new (limited) edition Excalibur Knights of the Round Table. Limited to 28 pieces
Roger Dubuis uses pink gold to craft the knights from, and despite their polygonal appearance it takes dedicated craftsmanship and a lot of patience to create each of them. All twelve of them are also finished to perfection before they take their place at the round table inside the 45mm Excalibur case. Each dial takes on average 45 hours to complete.
As is traditional with the ‘Knights of the Round Table’ editions of Roger Dubuis, it has the pledge engraved on it, along with a blue, transparent case back with below it Calibre RD 821. This self-winding movement is made in-house by Roger Dubuis, has a power reserve of 48 hours and comes with the prestigious Geneva Seal, testifying further for its exquisite make and finish.
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The independent, international jury of the prestigious Red Dot Award has announced the HYT H0 timepiece as one of its 2018 winners. This unique union between fluid technology and the flow of time, with its patented fluidic module, impressed with its high design quality among submissions from 59 countries. The prize will be presented at a special gala in Essen on July 9, 2018. This date also marks the opening of a related exhibition in the city’s Red Dot Design Museum, the largest museum for contemporary design worldwide. The H0 Black will feature in the Red Dot Design Yearbook, on https://red-dot-21.com and in the accompanying app. HYT is proud that the product it regards as the purest expression of its technical expertise and philosophy on time’s passage has achieved this best-in-class status.
HYT was born of a question. Time flows and only gains meaning through content. So why limit its measurement to indicating the now in splendid isolation, with needle-sharp hands or fleeting digital displays? Determined that its rebellion should make statements and waves, a multi-disciplinary think-tank set out to create timepieces that visibly connect the past, present and future. The HYT answer is a watch that overcomes the force of gravity to indicate the passage of time with liquids. Highly advanced technology took its cue from philosophy to mirror time’s intrinsic fluidity.
The rest is history. To be precise, it’s history that began 3,400 years ago with the Clepsydras, or water clocks, of the Pharaohs. These so-called “water thieves” transported H2O from one container to another to measure elapsed or “stolen” time. This meaningful visualization of the transition of time seemingly disappeared until 2012, when HYT broke new scientific ground, inventing a wristwatch integrating a patented fluidic module. A colored liquid documents the recent past; a transparent fluid indicates the foreseeable future. Their meeting point is a meniscus, aka the now.
Today HYT is an ecosystem that unites science, hi-technology, philosophy, art and design. Based in Neuchâtel, at the heart of the traditional Swiss watchmaking region, a dedicated team of 43 individuals makes liquid time real time. Their radical wristwatches harmoniously incorporate a mechanical watch movement as the trigger to the fluid propulsion. They make total sense of time – time and time again.
Music producer and all-around multi-talent Swizz Beatz has also expanded the collection he made in collaboration with Zenith. Next to the diamond set titanium Defy El Primero 21, he now added a Defy El Primero 21 to his collection made from white ceramic, which looks particularly stunning in combination with the orange details. The same can be said for the Defy Zero G, featuring the unique complication which Zenith redevised from the original version.
acob & Co thought that the Twin Turbo, with two triple-axis tourbillons and a minute repeater which was introduced in 2006, could be made more complicated and the result is the Twin Turbo Furious. With redesigned tourbillons, the watch now also features a monopusher chronograph. While that alone would be too simple for the watchmakers at Jacob & Co, so they also included a clever device in which you can set a reference time, for example for your fastest lap on a race track, and race against this time. At the end, you can simply see how many seconds you went under or over.
Crafted from Fairmined gold, the Chopard All-in-One is sustainable in more than one way. This highly complicated watch combines a perpetual calendar, with a tourbillon, orbital moon-phase display, equation of time, sunrise- and sunset time. But perhaps most impressive is that despite all these complications, Chopard was still able to give it a seven day power reserve!
The GyroGraff Drive is Graff sharing its passion for cars through intricate miniature paintings on the dial, combined with exclusive complications. Cleverly integrated into the scene on the dial is not only a triple-axis tourbillon but also a three dimensional moon phase hand carved from 18 karat gold. But the work of art also extends to the bezel, where 7.73 carats of diamonds are expertly set, so that no metal shows. A masterpiece in every sense of the word!
Bulgari is also using carbon this year, for their Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon nonetheless! Not only the case of this ultra-thin minute repeater is crafted from this material, but also the dial, and even the bracelet. The result is a featherlight watch, yet a heavy weight horological piece of art. The minute repeater sounds actually even better in the new carbon case, which is quite an achievement, as it already sounded amazing in the titanium version that was introduced in 2016.
The heat is on for ardent lovers of HYT timepieces. Exclusively available in the HYT Pop Up Store Miami Design District, the H0 FEEL THE HYT edition is unfazed by rising temperatures. A patented thermal compensator inside every HYT watch ensures that liquid expansion due to temperature variation never gets in the way of time’s fluidity. An horological complication in its own right, this breakthrough technology connects art and science without any risk of getting its fingers burned. Red, the color of fire, and 18k gold with 2N purity, reflecting the power of the sun, work their magic on a creation that instantly puts Miami on watch aficionados’ radars.
Ensuring the accuracy of the red and transparent fluids that document time’s passage in the capillary tube “vein” is a third liquid in a vital component working behind the scenes. This elegant solution is contained in a small bellow within one of the main bellows of the patented fluidic module. The liquid celebration represented by H0 FEEL THE HYT edition undoubtedly has scientific and aesthetic roots. Perhaps it’s no coincidence that an invention born in a high-tech laboratory slots in perfectly to a neighborhood where design decides. The subtly curved dial surface confirms the duality. A wave pattern and power reserve display with droplet-style decoration echo the intrinsic theme of going with the flow.
Visually speaking, the H0 FEEL THE HYT edition is totally hot. A gold opaline dial has engraved markers and numerals with white Super-LumiNova®, as do the brushed and micro-blasted counters. Spanning the three sub-dials is the watch’s name in confident capitals. Its crowning glory is a sumptuous red alligator pattern leather strap with a gold and titanium folding buckle. Cooling things down slightly are grey minute and second hands. This watch can certainly take the heat. And true fans will go through fire and water to get hold of one.
Audemars Piguet, the Swiss maker of the rugged Royal Oak watch, plans to open standalone stores to buy and sell secondhand timepieces, seeking more control over its products throughout their life cycle as the industry looks for new sources of growth.
The preowned business could be 10 to 20 times the size of the market for new watches, Chief Executive Officer Francois-Henry Bennahmias said at a show in Geneva. Until now it’s mostly been left to auction houses, independent local shops and online platforms like Amazon.com Inc. and eBay Inc., with Swiss brands focusing on building an aura of exclusivity around their new creations.
“We have to recapture that market, because we believe we can do that better,” he said in an interview at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.
Switzerland’s four-century-old watchmaking industry is experimenting with new strategies after a multiyear slump that came amid a crackdown on corruption in China and the rise of the smartwatch. Last year’s export growth of about 3 percent was a far shot from the double-digit pace of the previous decade.
Audemars Piguet, which makes around 40,000 new timepieces annually and is one of an increasingly rare breed of large independent watchmakers in an industry dominated by Richemont, Swatch Group AG and Rolex, will open stores selling used models of its own brand within three years, Bennahmias said. The brand has tested the concept at a store in Geneva’s Grand Hotel Kempinski, and it plans to start trials in the U.S. and Japan.
It’s not the only brand looking into the secondhand business. Jean-Claude Biver, head of LVMH watch brands TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith, has said he’s considering entering the market.
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Professionals, journalists, collectors and watch enthusiasts will travel from all four corners of the globe to be in Geneva from the 15th to the 19th January, 2018 for the 28th Salon International De La Haute Horlogerie, the most anticipated event in Fine Watchmaking. Members of the public will have the opportunity to attend Open Day on Friday 19th January. Tickets can be purchased directly from their website: SIHH
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Held at the historic Angle Orensanz Center in New York City, the event saw the official unveiling of the groundbreaking Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. The two watches made waves in haute horlogerie earlier this year, and now their innovative performance and astounding craftsmanship were revealed to the guests, who got the chance to tinker with a Zenith movement.
Both the strap and the bezel carry an inspiration quote by Swizz Beats: “Never let people tell you what you can’t do, because sky’s not the limit, it’s just the view.”
The one-of-a-kind watch was raffled off with proceeds going to the Gathering for Justice, a non-profit organization founded in 2005 by Harry Belafonte to fight child incarceration and the racial inequalities in the justice system.
For those who did not get to own the statement watch, a slightly modified version – the Defy El Primero 21 Swizz Beatz Edition – was released in only five pieces.
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What’s the secret to keeping MB&F at the top?
Creativity is an addiction and, like all addictions, you need the dosage to continuously increase—or else you feel empty and in need. Once a piece has been launched, I more or less lose interest in it. It is always the next creation or creations [that] get my adrenaline [going].
How does MB&F stand out from its competitors in the watch world?
[Since] the beginning of MB&F, 12 years ago, we had a very different outlook on watchmaking. For us, it is art and, as such, we deconstruct traditional, very high-end watchmaking to reconstruct it into a piece of 3D kinetic art. I cannot sing, paint or write, but give me the components of a watch movement and I can come up with dozens of pretty unusual ideas.
One of our favorite pieces was the MB&F Legacy — it was a huge success! Why did you stop this line with your last edition over the summer?
We did not stop the whole line, but only the original Legacy Machine No.1, which had been launched in 2011. Even though we continue to craft and sell about 60 pieces per year, it was time to retire this crucial piece in our history. The main reason is to increase desirability of the preowned pieces so that the existing owners can maximize the price when reselling them. And we needed the LM1 to give way to the brand new Legacy Machine, which launched on October 10.
Tell us about your relationship with Westime?
Westime is one of the six worldwide retailers who, in 2005, believed enough in us— or [was] crazy enough—to pay in advance one-third of [its] first order two years before we delivered the first machine… based [only] on a drawing and a crude 3D printed piece of plastic, which was supposed to mimic the HM1. The word ‘friends’ in our name—the ‘F’ in MB&F—always had a real meaning. Without the Simonian family, owners of Westime, and five other retailers, I would not be standing in front of you today. Contrary to what happens in the corporate world, that has a real meaning for both of us.
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